Chongqing Hotpot

What it is

Chongqing's social contract: a cauldron of beef-tallow chilli broth, brought to a rolling boil at your table, into which the table cooks tripe, duck blood, potatoes and everything else on skewers. The nine-grid pan exists so a big table can hold three heats of soup at once.

How to order like a local

Order yuan yang (half-and-half) if anyone at the table fears heat; 'wei la' mild still means mild-by-Chongqing-standards. The dipping bowl is sesame oil plus mashed garlic — it cools and buffers, never skip it. Tripe goes in for exactly 15 seconds: 'seven dips up, eight dips down'.

Good to know

Expect to spend 100-150 CNY per person with beer. Go at 6pm or after 9pm to dodge queues at the famous houses; a table of strangers sharing one pot is normal — say yes.